20/10/2026
Sorry, but so cool…
What makes a photograph cool?
Perhaps it is a certain look, an effortless gesture, an attitude or a cigarette held almost absentmindedly.
For decades, the cigarette was an almost ubiquitous presence in fashion and portrait photography. More than a prop, it became part of a visual language — suggesting elegance, rebellion, independence, seduction or simply attitude.
Seen today, these photographs also tell us something about the culture in which they were created. What once appeared naturally within the visual vocabulary of fashion, cinema and celebrity belongs to a cultural moment that has changed considerably. In this sense, the images are not only compelling photographs, but documents of their time.
From Franco Rubartelli’s Veruschka and Peter Lindbergh’s Tatjana Patitz to works by William Klein, Ellen von Unwerth, Steven Meisel and Ron Galella, the photographs in this selection span several decades and very different photographic approaches.
Fashion meets portraiture, carefully constructed images meet fleeting encounters, icons of photography meet icons in front of the camera. What connects them is not simply the cigarette itself, but the attitude it was once used to convey.
Smokey eyes. Loose smoke. Full attitude.
Sorry, but so cool…
FRANCO RUBARTELLI – Veruschka, Smoke in your eyes, 1968
STEVEN MEISEL – Through the window, Linda Evangelista, 1991
PETER LINDBERGH – Tatjana Patitz, Café de Flore, 1995
ELLEN VON UNWERTH – Two Icons, Linda and Christy, Cannes, 1990
RON GALELLA – Paul Newman at the premiere Party of "Cool Hand Luke" at the Americana Hotel in New York City, 1967
WILLIAM KLEIN – Smoke + Veil, Paris, VOGUE, 1958
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