07/10/2026
Traditionally, blocks like this are made of alder wood. Knot free alder is hard to come by, so I opted for knotty alder. True to its name, it has a lot of character with an abundance of knots. It’s ideal to stabilize and fill any voids you encounter. This is a tactile project, it has to “feel” right.
Superficial and small knots can be filled with wood glue and sawdust. Large knots and cavities need to be stabilized and backfilled.
Even if the knot hasn’t completely fallen out of the board, it will with time due to differences in wood expansion. Stabilization locks it in place.
I typically only use generic wood filler if I intend to paint the project. Any wood repairs you do will never match the existing wood. Even wood filler made from the same tree will not take stain. I learned from a bunch of old wood workers that the best approach is to embrace the knots, allow them to contrast the natural wood tones
I like using finely ground coffee. It’s a natural tone allows it to simultaneously contrast the primary wood tones, yet blend into the wood work. It’s also food safe, which is ideal for things like cutting boards.
For shallow imperfections, regular wood glue is sufficient. For deeper cavities, it’s better to use an epoxy. It’ll cure stronger and last longer. For thin splits, I prefer very thin CA clue. I’ll pack the void with grounds and allow the CA glue to pe*****te deeply into it.
🔥Something to keep in mind is that sometimes coffee and CA react to each other. It can get hot and smoke, don’t break the fumes. I’ve never had a piece fully catch fire though. 🔥
Once the large voids are all set, I’ll do some minor cleanup and reassess the repairs. It’s not uncommon for the filler to settle slightly and leave a minor depression. I will do a second filling on those.